November ushers in the holiday season with Thanksgiving, starting a period of celebration that blesses us with food, family and friends. Wine and other alcoholic beverages are part of the tradition in many homes, both for entertaining and for meals. Because many wines are released in the fall, there is currently a very wide variety of new wines and vintages available for the choosing. This is a very good thing since peoples' tastes vary so greatly.

The Thanksgiving meal is not easiest to pair wine with, not because of the ham or turkey, but because of some of the side dishes and their wide variety of flavors. Though rather tart, cranberry sauce contains quite a bit of sugar as does candied sweet potatoes and we know that sweet stuff can make some dry wines taste flat and sour. Also, a wine that is too soft (lacking acidity and/or tannins) won't stand up to the richer dishes such as mashed potatoes and gravy or the fats in the meat itself.

There are several types of wine that can work well given the requirements of the typical Thanksgiving Day cornucopia of delightful food. Light, zingy reds like Beaujolais, Grenache and lighter, fruity versions of Zinfandel can meet the challenge admirably. White wines with good, crisp acidity will also pair nicely, especially when off-dry to semi-sweet. Pinot Grigio, Riesling and Chenin Blanc are among the first choices of those who prefer white wine, with a few selected Chardonnays also filling the criteria.

Beaujolais Nouveau is arguably the most popular red wine for the chow fest commonly known as Thanksgiving. It is released for sale the third Thursday in November, prompting a worldwide party to celebrate the grape harvest and wine production around the world. Just seven to nine weeks old, it is the first wine to be bottled from this year's harvest. Made from Gamay grapes, its style is light, crisp and fruity with low tannin levels. Meant to be drunk very young, it is very refreshing and surprisingly food friendly making it a noteworthy choice for Turkey Day.

Other Beaujolais wines are also available and most are just as suitable. Beaujolais (from anywhere within the Beaujolais region in France), Beaujolais Villages (from the recognized, core villages of the region) and those from specific villages (Moulin Á Vent, Fleurie, Juliénas, Brouilly, etc.) are similar to Nouveau, but more refined and mellow having been aged somewhat. Look for well-known producers such as Gorges Debouf, Kermit Lynch and Louis Jadot and it's hard to go wrong. Zinfandel can express itself in a wide range of styles ranging from light, simple and fruity to rich, full-bodied, deep and complex. A light to medium bodied Zin with nice, rich fruit, a bit of acidity and a hint or more of residual sugar can stand-up to all the various foods that your family cooks can throw at it. Alexander Valley Sin Zin and M. Cosentino Cigar Zin are two good examples of this style and both are widely available.

One of France's Southern Rhone Grenache blends, an Australian Grenache or an Aussie GSM (Grenache, Shiraz, Mouvérdre blend) are some of the best choices from this varietal. They typically have a bit of a peppery note that can complement many of the Turkey Day dishes.

Pinot Grigio (or Gris) is a longtime favorite for Thanksgiving. Its flavor profile and crisp acidity make it versatile with food and some versions can be found that are off-dry. King Estate Pinot Gris from Oregon is very well balanced and just off-dry with round fruit flavors and enough acidity to keep it crisp and refreshing. Klostor from Germany is a bit less crisp, and a bit more sweet, but an excellent choice for those who prefer a softer wine. If your tastes demand a fully-dry, crisp white you should try the Pasqua, Pighin or Santa Margharita from Italy.

Rieslings range from totally dry to dessert wine sweet and every level in-between All but the sweetest are very food friendly wines, in part because of their bright acidity and apple flavors. Off-dry to semi-sweet versions include the Qualitätswein (QbA) bottling and the Qualitätswein mit Prädikat's (QmP) Kabinett and Spätlese Halbtröcken grades. The Bex Mosel QbA Riesling from Germany is low cost and completely turkey worthy, much like a Liebfraumilch in style. In a Kabinett or Spätlese, look for a wine with a higher alcohol content since they will have less residual sugar. New world countries also produce Rieslings creating many options for the happy wine shopper.

True fans of Chardonnay may want to try one of these two, very different, styles of this varietal. The A to Z Winery's 2005 Chardonnay, though otherwise typical of a big, rich California Chards, is somewhere between off-dry and semi-sweet. Without this bit of sweetness, it might not pair with the sweeter dishes as well. Quite A to Z's opposite, Evans and Tate Margaret River Chardonnay from Australia has barely seen oak and has not undergone any malolactic fermentation producing a wine that is crisp, bright and focused on the natural fruit flavors of the grape. I pairs with food so nicely by virtue of its refreshing acidity and juicy, round fruit flavors.

We are not limited, but rather blessed with many options. Whatever your choice, enjoy the bounty, give thanks and leave room for dessert. Cheers!

Visit Ron at the Winetree East for all your wine, beer and spirit needs - 476-8141